Predicting the acute aquatic toxicity of organic UV filters used in cosmetic formulations

Chrysanthos Stergiopoulos; Fotios Tsopelas; Maria Ochsenkühn-Petropoulou; Klara Valko

doi:10.5599/admet.2364

Authors

Chrysanthos Stergiopoulos Laboratory of Inorganic and Analytical Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Iroon Polytechneiou 9, Zografou 157 80, Athens, Greece https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6002-4870
Fotios Tsopelas Laboratory of Inorganic and Analytical Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Iroon Polytechneiou 9, Zografou 157 80, Athens, Greece https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6917-2028
Maria Ochsenkühn-Petropoulou Laboratory of Inorganic and Analytical Chemistry, School of Chemical Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, Iroon Polytechneiou 9, Zografou 157 80, Athens, Greece https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8761-8468
Klara Valko Business & Technology Centre, Bessemer Drive, Stevenage, Herts, SG1 2DX, United Kingdom https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4605-2941

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5599/admet.2364

Keywords:

UV filters, aquatic toxicity, phospholipid binding, IAM chromatography, octanol-water partition coefficient, environmental risk assessment

Abstract

Background and purpose: Organic UV filters are commonly used in sunscreen and cosmetic formulations to protect against harmful UV radiation. However, concerns have emerged over their potential toxic effects on aquatic organisms. This study aims to investigate the acute aquatic toxicity of 13 organic UV filters and determine whether phospholipid binding, measured through biomimetic chromatographic methods, is a better predictor of toxicity than the traditionally used octanol-water partition coefficient (log P). Experimental approach: The chromatographic retention of the 13 UV filters was measured on an immobilized artificial membrane (IAM) stationary phase to assess phospholipid binding. These measurements were then applied to previously established predictive models, originally developed for pharmaceutical compounds, to estimate acute aquatic toxicity endpoints of 48-hour LC₅₀ for fish and the 48-hour EC₅₀ (immobilization) for Daphnia magna. Key results: Phospholipid binding was found to be a more reliable predictor of the acute aquatic toxicity of UV filters compared to log P. The toxicity was primarily driven by lipophilicity and charge, with negatively charged compounds exhibiting lower toxicity. Conclusion: The study demonstrates that phospholipid binding is a better descriptor of UV filter toxicity than log P, providing a more accurate method for predicting the environmental risk of these compounds. This insight can guide the development of more environmentally friendly sunscreens by reducing the use of highly lipophilic and positively charged compounds, thus lowering their aquatic toxicity.

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